We celebrated by a trip ashore to the very antiquated and dilapidated
Arctowski Base, a Polish station. It had a caravan! But it also had seals,
both elephant and fur, and lots of chin strap, adelie and gentoo penguins,
all very cute and anthropomorphic. And it was beautiful. Great swathes of
moss and still lakes.
We went ashore about 9.30pm, came back at 11 with a very efficient zodiak
service, and then had a rather odd New Year party where the crew and the
three Poles from the base celebrated rather harder than the rest of us.
Which is not to say that we didn't also celebrate. I had a heart to heart
with a rather beaten up but beautiful Polish boy who had a broken heart. It
was quite dim in the lounge which is why he lamented that the ship was not
staying longer so he and I could go to his quarters and show that
heartbreaker she was not the only girl in his world.
At 1pm it was still twilight and then started getting lighter. No dark here
below 60 degrees south.
The ship set sail again at 2.30 am and by morning we were in a group of
islands called Atcho (HO) where the landing was among a rookery where heaps
of baby penguins were discovering life under their parents stomachs. I do
wish I could post some of the many many photos. And there were seals and a
predatory bird called a skewer looking for lunch. And it was beautiful. Lots
of moss again, snow banks and spectacular rocks left over from a volcano.
I nearly trod on an adolescent fur seal so well camoflaged was he, but not
when he got cranky and barked at us to rack off.
We are now heading for Deception Island which is an almost full circle
crater of an active volcano with a narrow entrance channel. The Lonely
Planet Guide says there is a rock in the centre of the channel 2.5 metres
deep which it is wise to be wary of!!!! It doesn't say at what tide. The
management plan for this place suggests if the volcano erupts ships are
advised to leave, ideally after picking up all passengers from the shore.
Because it is volcanic there may be the opportunity to have a swim in heated
water. I will take my bathers ashore.
We have seen hump back whales today, lots of porpoising penguins (they swim
like dolphins, julping out of the water every now and then) and the most
beautiful nissan hut shaped blue iceberg.
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